maxredline
03-29-2008, 11:44 AM
Okay first of all I have read where some peeps have installed the heli's with the original throttle cables. The reason being, I assume is that they were to lazy to install the new longer ones that come with the helibars. The heli company surely would not include the longer cables if they didn't think they were needed, right? Right, so take the time to install them. This write up should give you a better idea of what you are in for. I am writing this up from memory so....
Read the Helibar instructions and use a manual. If you do not have a manual you can download one from this site, which is muchly appreciated by all, thank you administrators.
First of all siphon the gas tank dry. there is no need to loosen or remove the "banjo" connections of the gas tank to the fuel pump. Place your bike in a spot where you will not have to move it and can walk around the bike. Remove the seat. Remove the side cowls (fairings), air intake covers and inner cowl parts. Remove the steering damper (if you don't have one get one) and the front bolts that hold down the tank. Pivot the tank up and support with the rod thats home is under the stock seat. Remove the vent and overflow hoses from the tank or just pull them up so that you can swing the tank around later. There is one electrical plug under the tank that needs to be unplugged.
Remove the stock handle bar ends. Loosen the bolts that clamp down the controls to the bars. Loosen the clutch and front brake clamp. Loosen the clip on bars from the fork tubes. There is a thin wire alignment clip for the stock clip ons that fits around each fork tube below the clip on clamp that needs to be removed and left off for the Helibars. Remove the top triple clamp. Unplug any electrical connections on the bar contols that will make removal easier. Remove the clip ons and slide the controls and levers off. Remove the Left handle bar grip.
Install the bar end bolt into the vibration damper inside the stock bar. Make sure you leave enough of the bolt sticking out far enough to put the bolt into a vise with soft jaws. Pinch the retainer clip at the end of the bar and with a rag around the bar pull like a bitch on the bar. You may have to poke at the holes in the bars where the rubber of the damper gets hung up but the dampers will come out. Install them in the helibars. Use a small amount of soap to lubricate the dampers to help with the installation.
Remove the hinge plate at rear of the gas tank, 4 bolts and rotate the tank so that it faces the right rear side. Don't kink the hoses badly or short out the battery, put a rag underneath the tank.
Remove the top of the air filter. Remove the velocity stacks, 4 bolts. Put a clean small rag into each throttle body opening. Loosen the air flapper cable and remove it from the servo motor. Remove all hoses from under the air filter box. Remove the small electrical unit on the right under side of the air box, 1 phillips machine screw. Carefully move the lower air box off to the side, tethered some what by an electrical sensor wire. (this plug is a major bitch to remove with out breaking so don't remove it unless it comes easy for you) secure the lower air box to the side of the bike with some string of wire or....
Open up the throttle handle bar unit and to get all the play you can. Mark the lower and upper cables where they connect to the throttle bodies so that you won't for get which go where. Remove the cables. The lower connection on the bottom of the throttle body is tight, be patient and use needle nose pliers.
Install the new cables into the handle bar control housing. Install the cable ends onto the throttle body. Feed the cable through, use a peice of bend wire to get a hold of the cable once through then use your fingers and needle nose pliers to locate and install the cable ends. Take your time.
Now you need to look back at the heli instructions to route the electrical and clutch cables properly. Install every thing in the opposite order. But before installing the air filter cover read up on the air flapper to servo control setting in the manual. I believe it is chapter 5. In a nut shell you turn on the ignition, short out the test connector (by the battery) which energizes the servo. You use the flapper cable adjustment to align the marks on the flapper pulley and housing and then back the adjustment off 1/2 a turn.
First time you do this may take you 4 hours but if you had to do it a second time it would be half. Good luck.
Read the Helibar instructions and use a manual. If you do not have a manual you can download one from this site, which is muchly appreciated by all, thank you administrators.
First of all siphon the gas tank dry. there is no need to loosen or remove the "banjo" connections of the gas tank to the fuel pump. Place your bike in a spot where you will not have to move it and can walk around the bike. Remove the seat. Remove the side cowls (fairings), air intake covers and inner cowl parts. Remove the steering damper (if you don't have one get one) and the front bolts that hold down the tank. Pivot the tank up and support with the rod thats home is under the stock seat. Remove the vent and overflow hoses from the tank or just pull them up so that you can swing the tank around later. There is one electrical plug under the tank that needs to be unplugged.
Remove the stock handle bar ends. Loosen the bolts that clamp down the controls to the bars. Loosen the clutch and front brake clamp. Loosen the clip on bars from the fork tubes. There is a thin wire alignment clip for the stock clip ons that fits around each fork tube below the clip on clamp that needs to be removed and left off for the Helibars. Remove the top triple clamp. Unplug any electrical connections on the bar contols that will make removal easier. Remove the clip ons and slide the controls and levers off. Remove the Left handle bar grip.
Install the bar end bolt into the vibration damper inside the stock bar. Make sure you leave enough of the bolt sticking out far enough to put the bolt into a vise with soft jaws. Pinch the retainer clip at the end of the bar and with a rag around the bar pull like a bitch on the bar. You may have to poke at the holes in the bars where the rubber of the damper gets hung up but the dampers will come out. Install them in the helibars. Use a small amount of soap to lubricate the dampers to help with the installation.
Remove the hinge plate at rear of the gas tank, 4 bolts and rotate the tank so that it faces the right rear side. Don't kink the hoses badly or short out the battery, put a rag underneath the tank.
Remove the top of the air filter. Remove the velocity stacks, 4 bolts. Put a clean small rag into each throttle body opening. Loosen the air flapper cable and remove it from the servo motor. Remove all hoses from under the air filter box. Remove the small electrical unit on the right under side of the air box, 1 phillips machine screw. Carefully move the lower air box off to the side, tethered some what by an electrical sensor wire. (this plug is a major bitch to remove with out breaking so don't remove it unless it comes easy for you) secure the lower air box to the side of the bike with some string of wire or....
Open up the throttle handle bar unit and to get all the play you can. Mark the lower and upper cables where they connect to the throttle bodies so that you won't for get which go where. Remove the cables. The lower connection on the bottom of the throttle body is tight, be patient and use needle nose pliers.
Install the new cables into the handle bar control housing. Install the cable ends onto the throttle body. Feed the cable through, use a peice of bend wire to get a hold of the cable once through then use your fingers and needle nose pliers to locate and install the cable ends. Take your time.
Now you need to look back at the heli instructions to route the electrical and clutch cables properly. Install every thing in the opposite order. But before installing the air filter cover read up on the air flapper to servo control setting in the manual. I believe it is chapter 5. In a nut shell you turn on the ignition, short out the test connector (by the battery) which energizes the servo. You use the flapper cable adjustment to align the marks on the flapper pulley and housing and then back the adjustment off 1/2 a turn.
First time you do this may take you 4 hours but if you had to do it a second time it would be half. Good luck.