What's up with that shit? Now I know that all of you who have bought the new 1000RR haven't waited the 300 mile recommendation by honda before giving it full throttle. My bike has 100 miles and I'm trying to be good. God knows I'm trying. I haven't even given my bike full throttle yet, how sad is that.

Should I REALLY wait 300 miles before letting her open?

open it up but dont hold it there..I changed my oil at 500 and again at 1000 and ill do it again at 1500..ill change it at every 500 miles or every 1000 depending on how hard I ride it.

It really is a good thing to do what the manufacture says on brake in, they kinda know what there talking about. Patience my son, Patience :twisted: Itlll pay off :wink:

my first 400 miles i kept it under six500 rpms. im working on my second 400 miles and i stay under 8500 rpms. once i hit 800 miles ill go up to 10500 rpms to i hit 1000 miles. then ill ride it hard and rev high on it

not that i have a 1k :( but i've been told numerous times that these bikes arent like they used to be5 or so years ago, when they required a specific break in mileage and rpm corresponding. Pretty much all you need to do is vary your rpm's and dont redline it for the first about 500ish miles and you should be good to go. Everyone has their own methods, but i once read a great article about it and how its actually good to get a little brave with the throttle early on :)

my opinion all the bullshit about brake-in is bullshit...ride the bike!!! bring it up to red line and let off,im not saying to hold in the red for miles but its ok to hit every now and then,just change that oil sooner at 500 miles..you dont have to baby it..im doing my 3rd oil change at 1500..and again at 2000..I use Castrol GTX 10-40 it cheap so thats one good reason to change the oil every 500 miles(if riding hard)fuck that bullshit rip off motorcycle oil.

dyno break in, out of the box is the only way to go, with out any free revving or unnecessary running. typical gains are 4-8hp. the variation of rpms is almost impossible on the street. for example, lugging around could leave you in the low 140s compared to dyno break in high 140s. like the 954 most common numbers are mid to high 120s stock, when they are broke in on the dyno the reach low to mid 130s. just follow the recommendations and change at 600 miles.

I dont know man I got 132.5 at 6,000ft with a micron bolt on and I broke her in by the book.....

if dyno is a better way to breakin the motor. that mya explain my dyno results. yesterday i got mine back and there dyno must be reading low. 134.4 at 11,200rpms a
six9.5 at 8,500 rpms
if you compare my chart to the chart in superbike
mag. its identical. it was also alittle humid. from six G up my air/fuel is 12 [give or take alittle degrees]

now this sound really low because my motor is still tight or is it that this dyno is off. i had another biek dyno'd there and it showed 87.7 on a F3 with a fullpipe, jet 2 kit, +2 advancer. i compared that bike to others with the same mods adn they had close to 10 hp more then i did.

please help!! i dont want to know realliy of this bike is this low

I dont know man I got 132.5 at 6,000ft with a micron bolt on and I broke her in by the book.....

I got 132 on mine breaking it in hard, with an Erion Bolt On, and a PCIII, 03 954RR

Got 4 more from flapper mod and airfilter mesh removal

Plan on doing the same with the 1000RR

Thanks for the input guys. Just like anything else, there is differing opinions on doing it right. To me, I would think that opening it up once in a while during break in period is a good thing. When the engine is still tight, you want to loosen her up just like a woman. :twisted:

Thanks for the input guys. Just like anything else, there is differing opinions on doing it right. To me, I would think that opening it up once in a while during break in period is a good thing. When the engine is still tight, you want to loosen her up just like a woman. :twisted:

Just don't go to hard and fast or you'll blow your load early!

Hehehehehe

Just don't go to hard and fast or you'll blow your load early!

Hehehehehe

I hate it when that happens :oops:

if dyno is a better way to breakin the motor. that mya explain my dyno results. yesterday i got mine back and there dyno must be reading low. 134.4 at 11,200rpms a
six9.5 at 8,500 rpms
if you compare my chart to the chart in superbike
mag. its identical. it was also alittle humid. from six G up my air/fuel is 12 [give or take alittle degrees]

now this sound really low because my motor is still tight or is it that this dyno is off. i had another biek dyno'd there and it showed 87.7 on a F3 with a fullpipe, jet 2 kit, +2 advancer. i compared that bike to others with the same mods adn they had close to 10 hp more then i did.

please help!! i dont want to know realliy of this bike is this low



134 from a 1000. there are many things that can vary, key to a good dyno operator is consistency, things such as tire pressure and chain slack can make a difference.
alot of the bikes you see in magazines are 'spec' bikes, most likely perfectly tuned 'for the show' from the factory. so majority of real world numbers will be some what less. alot of pipe manufactures use the 'spec bike' numbers to sell their system.
far as the f3 90hp is about right for them,, ignition adv in most cases you will loose peak hp, and all depending on a/f mixture. slight adjustments make a difference in the numbers.
yet to see an f3 or f4 break 95hp, nor an f4i break 100. but the 6rr claims 116 w/full arata custom map.

dont stress over the numbers to much, if they have it on file, ask for the number of a factory 954 or somthing, in most cases will be mid to high 120s stock, low to mid 140s full system mapped. if they have them down as less, then you know for sure their eq is a little low.

Thanks for all the input guys, it is much appreicated. :D

Just as a side note, I set the shift light at 8000 for the first 500 miles just so I didn't hold it for too long. no matter I figure by the time I hit 10,000 miles we should see the RC211 in the showrooms. COMMON HONDA!